Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Bula from Fiji!

Lautoka, Fiji

Eastern Time plus 17 hours

Last night we crossed the International Dateline and Monday, February 11, 2008 did not exist.

Bula from Fiji!

We decided to do a beach day for Fiji. We had had a sailing trip booked which was cancelled due to lack of interest. I think it may have had something to do with the cost as it was more expensive than the other trips. The excursion desk rebooked us on the trip they thought was most similar.

Our new excursion was Beachcomber Island Getaway. By chance, this was the trip that Stirling and Clare were already on. We went to the Mamanuca group of Fijian Islands by high speed catamaran. They had some beautiful flowers on board and served a fruit tray during the 30 minute trip to Beachcomber Island.

There was a group playing music to welcome us.

The water was absolutely outstanding, warm and a beautiful turquoise blue. Water sports were also available, but we just stayed in the water all day jumping in the waves. I met some kids from UW Eau Claire that were on their way to a semester in Australia. There were a lot of college students there.

The man with Jeff and Stirling is Jone the bar manger. We had a table on the second deck so we looked down on the band and the native dancers.

We also had a Polynesian buffet with a ton of items on it. Everything was delicious. The items included ham, pineapple, mango, papaya, eggplant, beef curry, vegetable curry, bananas with coconut, naked fish, ceviche, passion fruit, rice, sweet potatoes, fried fish etc. I have had requests for food photos, so here they are.

Saturday, February 9, 2008

Talofa from Pago Pago!

Pago Pago, American Samoa

Eastern Time minus 6 Hours (now minus 7 hours)

Talofa from Pago Pago!

We have now traveled 10,774 nautical miles from New York. Today marks 4 weeks aboard the Queen Victoria.

We got up early and watched the approach to Pago Pago. The word that comes to mind is lush!

We decided to do a short overview tour from the ship in the morning and spend the afternoon on our own. As we got off the ship the Samoan Dancers were performing a welcome show. I saw this beautiful little girl standing and watching. One of the dancers was probably her mother.
The guides were waiting to welcome us in their lava lavas (skirts).
Our guide was named Samoa Junior Wilson. We were to call him Junior. Here he is with Jeff. Junior explained that they still wear lava lavas on important occasions such as weddings, funerals and any other time they want to show respect. They were happy to have us there, so they wear their lava lavas.

Junior had a very interesting saying. You may want to try to remember it to use in conversation. “I'm not really sure, but I know for a fact…”

The buses were made on the island. They got the trucks, sawed off the tops and then built the tops including wood with carvings. Our driver owned the bus and was very proud of it. The buses were the main form of transportation on the island. The locals ride them all of the time. There are just a few roads so the buses just go up and down the roads, back and forth. The reason the buses we rode in were decorated with flowers etc was that they wanted to know which buses we were in. The people saw the buses coming and would stop and wave and yell hello as we passed.

We toured the island which was very picturesque. We saw various landmarks including Faasilasilga which legend says were a mother and father turned into these two little islands. It was an interesting legend, but I can't remember it.
Another was a mountain they call The Rainmaker because if the top is covered with clouds it will rain and if it isn't, it won't. We were lucky, it wasn't covered. We were unlucky, it rained anyway. The rain here is very heavy and then it stops almost immediately so it really doesn't affect your day. It is like Florida in the summer.


We saw the islanders practicing for competitions in Cricket for a big holiday.

They will also race outrigger canoes that hold between 25 and 28 paddlers each as another part of the competition.

The families are very close on the island. They spend lots of time together. We heard that at 5:40 each night they sound drums (which turn out to be huge empty gas canister). At this time everything stops and people head for home. At 6 PM everyone needs to be home eating with their family and discussing their day. At 6:30 people may leave their home and continue whatever they were doing.

Sundays each tribe spends together. All of the families gather and bring food etc for a big feast after church. All of the families in each tribe must bring food etc for the Chief and his family as an offering. This pavilion was at a church, but most large homes had one almost this size for the extended families to gather. There are 7 chiefs on the island. The people are very religious and belong to a variety of religions but most were Catholic, I think. We visited this missionary church.

After extended touring of the island we went to one of these large pavilions (called a fale) and were met by the chief and other members of their group (tribe?) Traditional island music and dances were performed. It was great. One part involved a Kava ceremony. Ava is a drink produced from the Kava root. The drink was prepared by the young men of the village and presented to the Chiefs daughter. She is on the left in the headdress with the yellow thing on top.

We got a chance to try this tongue numbing drink if we wanted to.

Our friend David from Naples got drawn into the thing because no one else volunteered. He was a real trooper. They had him follow this young dancer and he even had to run and jump and shinny up a pole after sliding across the floor on his stomach. It was very funny, but he was fantastic and very gracious!

We had planed to go to the Pago pago Yacht Club on our won for their Saturday racing. W saw the PPYC as we drove past on our tour, so we got the feel nothing much was going to happen.

Instead we met Bob, Jo, Greg, Daneen and Chief for lunch at Sadie Thompson Inn for lunch. It was a neat place with lots of atmosphere and great burgers. It was made famous by Somerset Maugham.

We took a low walk though the small town on the way back to the ship. Jeff even found a Whaler!

We bought this beautiful flower arrangement on the way back for $7 and it is full of orchids. The cabin smells wonderful!

We had sail away on Kazzie's big balcony this time. Stirling even found a place to hide so he doesn't have to get off in Sydney!

The weather looked threatening, but it held off and we headed back out to sea.

Thursday, February 7, 2008

Jeff converts: from Pollywog to Shellback

Crossing the Line Ceremony

His Imperial Majesty, Neptune of the Deep, his Queen and Seaweed Courts of multitudinous Mermaids, able aides and other swimmers on boarded Queen Victoria today.

This historical tradition dates back to the 14th century. Since it had been decided the world was round and not flat, the Spanish and Portuguese explorers ventured further south and west without fear of falling off the edge of the world. The excitement of sailing into the southern part of the world became a special event commemorated in a quasi religious/mythological play involving King Neptune and his court who were “crossing the line” for the first time. These initiations took on various forms, some of which were highly dangerous. “Pollywogs” would be coated in various nasty liquids found in the bulge of the ship and then suspended by their ankles and plunged into the sea. The modern day “Crossing the Line” ceremony has changed little for hundreds of years and in fact contains a speech by King Neptune that was originally made in 1393.

Today was our big “Crossing the Line Ceremony”. It was an extra big event because it was the first time the Queen Victoria had crossed the line as well as other various “Pollywogs”.

Yesterday they called for volunteers to be in the ceremony. Jeff went up to the meeting to find out about it. There were about 40 people there. Each person had to say something that they did that was bad while they were on the ship. The ship personnel then selected the people to be called up for judgment.

I arrived at the ceremony spot today an hour early by chance. The area around the Pavilion Pool was packed.

There was a lot of hoopla. I managed to worm myself into an excellent vantage point.

First came Queen Neptune, His Imperial Majesty Neptune of the Deep and The Judge.

Then Mermaids, Captain, Chief Engineer and Head of Housekeeping followed.

The “pollywogs “entered. Somehow there ended up to be more than 100 of them. They each kissed a fish which is part of the ceremony.

The ceremony followed with lots of speeches and the band playing.

Jeff's name was one of about five called. When they called, “Jeff B. come forward to hear your charges”, everyone roared. The judge read out about him sipping rum on Waikiki Beach and causing the ship to leave late and the crowd went wild booing! It was lots of fun. I was booing the loudest!

Then he got coated with the “nasty liquids” followed by a dunk in the pool!

He passed the test and is no longer a “pollywog”. He is now a “shellback!

(Note from Liz: There are some more great photos on Kazzie's blog, especially the before and after photos of Dad!)

It was great fun and a good way to spend the first hour after crossing into the Southern Hemisphere.

We turn the clock back another hour tonight.

More Blogging From Jeff

More Blogging From Jeff ---

There are more islands off of the California coast than I realized. It's not like they dot the coast line, but there are more than a few. Unlike the Bahamas and most of the Caribbean, they have “vertical relief”, aka large hills - small mountains. The cruising sailors that I met while running races in San Diego spoke about them. Anyway, and like they said, the southern coast of California looks to be excellent for cruising.

The immensity of Los Angeles's Long Beach Harbor cannot be overstated. As far as you can see, meaning 5 - 8 miles, there are ships and the accompanying dock-side, monstrous container cranes.

A high school buddette, and life-long friend, Betsy promptly met us at the pier and took us around by car. We traversed a particular bridge that was used for a chase scene in the movie, “To Live and Die in L.A.”, for which Betsy was Assistant Director. We're looking forward to renting the movie again.

Not getting enough of the cruise ship thing, Betsy, Jeanne and I had lunch on the original Queen Mary. Presently it is permanently docked and used as a hotel, restaurant, and small convention center. The differences in styling and construction were noticeable. There are compound curves throughout, meaning that the decks, railings and bulkheads follow traditional, sloping, contour lines, rather than the boxy, straight lines of modern liners.

Even though we'd been on-board for 17 days, it seemed like we were just beginning the voyage while leaving Los Angeles. Except that now, even 3 days after that, heading towards Carl and Carla's in Hawaii - while we've been on our way around the world now for weeks, we don't seem to be getting away from the US.

The trip from LA to HI; again, the Pacific has been different than what I've experienced in the Atlantic. The long swells never stop. Wind has been mostly medium to heavy, meaning 15 - 25 kts., first from the north and then from the east. When it has calmed to almost nothing, the swells are still 6' - 8', have a distance of +/- 100 yards between peaks. From discussion, the seas may lay down closer to the equator. Presently, we have some low clouds, and may see some weather prior to arrival tomorrow in Honolulu.

The food battle continues. In the gym, the PRECOR elliptical machine is getting an hour out of me almost every day. That's followed by a half-hour or so on the other machines.

Robert Macomber came on board in LA as a lecturer. Bob is a charter member of our southern club, the Caloosahatchee Marching and Chowder Society. While his lectures at CMCS were interesting, we didn't realize that he is a player on the international lecture scene, and a renowned expert on the subject of shipping during the period from Columbus to WWI. By the way, that subject is more interesting than it sounds. Besides the “retail” subjects like pirates and treasure, history at that time was shaped by naval power. Anyway, we share our favorite local band, the Yard Dogs, and Bob - who is our age - remembers horses grazing where our Sandarac condo is located.

The Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts, aka RADA, is on-board in the form of 4 graduates who are giving lessons on acting. Over 100 people showed up. None of us is kidding ourselves, meaning that what people seem to be intent on is not learning how to be an actor, but how to be more proactive on how one acts - as in “act your age, not your shoe size”. Anyway, I have to get up in front of sailors at most regattas. For me and the RC, the better my talk goes, the better the regatta goes. This might help with that, plus the class is enjoyable. In a week or so they will cast a few of us in a play. However, just prior to that, I will give an unsolicited interpretation of “anxiously running away”, which will be performed with blurring clarity.

We were accompanied by “Stella”, the given name of our GPS's voice, on our visit with Carl and Carla. Stella was only one source for many of the laughs we had during our combined tour of Oahu. As Carl said, spending a few days in Honolulu is like visiting Chicago for the weekend. Not a big island at about 30 miles across, it has 6 lanes of freeway traffic, all jammed-up at rush hours. The whole time I kept wondering, “It's a small island. Where could they all be going?” Anyway, the weather was a low ceiling of clouds and an occasional sprinkle, so we opted for coastline vistas and views of the landscape until the mountains disappeared into the clouds.

The surfers were out, as were the outrigger canoes. We were there on a weekday, and it was amazing how much activity there is with these canoes. It's not a tourist thing. Every possible entity had them, including high schools, colleges, hotels, yacht clubs, other private clubs, and on and on. Like sailing, they appeared to have an agreed upon, one-design - meaning that the paddlers make the difference, not the craft. They were everywhere, and it looked like there are serious competitions between them.

Diamond Head, that iconic image. It turned-out to be the quintessential short attention span, tourist exercise. Instead of tediously hiking the mountain to the top in order to look down across the massive (inactive) volcanic crater, a two-lane tunnel was blasted through the side of the mountain. You drive in, take a look around, sort of like a sub-division cul-de-sac, the turn around and drive out. Done in a matter of 3 minutes, never got out of the car.

That saved us almost enough time for cocktails at the Waikiki Yacht Club. Carl had his NLYC membership card, which, together with airs of financial responsibility extending to at least a round of drinks, gave us instant reciprocity. A sailing club is a sailing club. Location doesn't seem to make much of a difference. This one had a Friday Night Series, and a Weekend Series for PHRF and one-designs. There were Lasers, Opti's and others on the racks for sailing school. Most important/typical was that it had Mount Gay on the speed rail, and friendly people at the bar.

While enjoying the WYC, surprise, surprise, I totally lost track of time. “Hyacinth” and “Onslow” (“Richard” is not the correct image here) were 20 minutes late returning to the ship. The ship operates on the same philosophy as the Kettle Moraine High School Band: “If you're early, you're on-time. If you're on-time, you're late. If you're late, we're gone.” All the gang-planks were up except the one for the deck-hands that help untie the ship. Luckily (especially for Onslow) they were still topping-off the fuel tanks, which held the ship over long enough for us to hop aboard. (WHEW!)

As luck would have it, being late boarding in Hawaii served well for this next item. There are many traditions from the British Royal Navy that were begun, taken up by most of the rest of the nautical world, and show no signs of receding. This particular one involves individuals crossing the equator for the first time. The “Neptune's Ball” ritual involves mythology, which has always been a part of life on the high seas. It is similar to the Bilgepullers initiation, which is maybe where the Bilgepullers initiation came from. “King Neptune” takes over the ship and administers the transformation of a “pollywog” becoming a “shellback”. One of the steps in the ceremony is where King Neptune decides on forgiving a single transgression that is representative of all one's transgressions. A requirement of the transgression is that it has to be real. Causing the ship to remain in port in Honolulu was a no-brainer.

The overcast that came on one day prior to Hawaii and stayed on one day after Hawaii has finally lifted. The seas have been the same since leaving LA. There are swells about 5' - 8', with short chop on top of them. Unlike the Gulf of Mexico, there are a number of patterns to the swells and waves. As a result there continues to be ship's movement, meaning slight rocking. It is great for sleeping, but there is never a moment that you might forget that you are on a ship.

Pago Pago in a couple days.

All is well,

Jeff

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Tuesday night

Eastern time minus 5 hours

I love all of the blog comments. It really makes me feel connected. It also helps to know that someone is interested enough to read this goofy stuff. It makes me feel I should keep on posting. Hopefully the blog will be more interesting as the ports become more interesting.

It almost became very interesting in Hawaii as we came close to missing the ship!!! I was in meltdown mode when I realized how late we were!

Jeff is posting about Hawaii and he didn’t get a chance to work on it today. One of us will definitely post about Hawaii tomorrow. We really enjoyed our day with Carl and Carla.